Generator

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neverenoughguns
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Post by neverenoughguns »

Tenzing_Norgay wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 4:30 pm
FSUnoles wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 1:41 pm
If I went w an interlock, which specific one would I need for this specific generator?
The interlock kit is specific to your breaker panel, not your generator. Find the model # of your panel then Google that # + Interlock kit. Typically about $65 - $95 (unless you have a D-Square OM1 QO panel like me...then it's $200. :roll: :shock: :cry:

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The piece that's generator specific is the hook-up/receptacle that connects to your panel and allows you to plug in the generator. This plug should match/exceed your generator output (e.g. 30a, 50a)...

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The system we had installed looks very similar to this one w a 50 amp plug outside. Didn’t see any advantage to going w anything other than the interlock type system.
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SteyrAUG
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Post by SteyrAUG »

Tenzing_Norgay wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 4:30 pm
FSUnoles wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 1:41 pm
If I went w an interlock, which specific one would I need for this specific generator?
The interlock kit is specific to your breaker panel, not your generator. Find the model # of your panel then Google that # + Interlock kit. Typically about $65 - $95 (unless you have a D-Square OM1 QO panel like me...then it's $200. :roll: :shock: :cry:

Image

The piece that's generator specific is the hook-up/receptacle that connects to your panel and allows you to plug in the generator. This plug should match/exceed your generator output (e.g. 30a, 50a)...

Image

Image
And PLEASE make sure it's set up right where the FPL service is disconnected or you will back power the line and cook the nice FPL people who show up to turn your power back on.

I used to take the 220 connection, pull the meter and hard wire my generator to my panel and it ran the whole house except for things like the AC. But I had a window AC unit going, ceiling fans, tv and was popping popcorn.

Short of a whole house backup generator (which are actually becoming quite affordable lately), it's the only way to fly. The electrical network in my neighborhood was pretty antiquated and the smallest storms would knock us out for days.
FSUnoles
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Post by FSUnoles »

Thanks for the good info, fortunately all our power lines are buried and we haven’t lost power for more than 15-20 minutes in the 7 years I’ve lived here.

GE Powermark Gold Load Center is on the inside circle breaker

THQDL21150 Is written on the top circuit outside (2 pole 150 amp circuit breaker), below It are two 15 amp circuits.

Which interlock would match this and what other parts are needed including wires etc. the electrician is coming to just install everything, I have to buy it

SteyrAUG wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 9:55 pm
Tenzing_Norgay wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 4:30 pm
FSUnoles wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 1:41 pm
If I went w an interlock, which specific one would I need for this specific generator?
The interlock kit is specific to your breaker panel, not your generator. Find the model # of your panel then Google that # + Interlock kit. Typically about $65 - $95 (unless you have a D-Square OM1 QO panel like me...then it's $200. :roll: :shock: :cry:

Image

The piece that's generator specific is the hook-up/receptacle that connects to your panel and allows you to plug in the generator. This plug should match/exceed your generator output (e.g. 30a, 50a)...

Image

Image
And PLEASE make sure it's set up right where the FPL service is disconnected or you will back power the line and cook the nice FPL people who show up to turn your power back on.

I used to take the 220 connection, pull the meter and hard wire my generator to my panel and it ran the whole house except for things like the AC. But I had a window AC unit going, ceiling fans, tv and was popping popcorn.

Short of a whole house backup generator (which are actually becoming quite affordable lately), it's the only way to fly. The electrical network in my neighborhood was pretty antiquated and the smallest storms would knock us out for days.
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Tenzing_Norgay
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Post by Tenzing_Norgay »

FSUnoles wrote: Fri Jul 31, 2020 10:04 pm Thanks for the good info, fortunately all our power lines are buried and we haven’t lost power for more than 15-20 minutes in the 7 years I’ve lived here.

GE Powermark Gold Load Center is on the inside circle breaker

THQDL21150 Is written on the top circuit outside (2 pole 150 amp circuit breaker), below It are two 15 amp circuits.

Which interlock would match this and what other parts are needed including wires etc. the electrician is coming to just install everything, I have to buy it
That number is for the breaker, not the panel.

Without seeing your panel/label, it is impossible for us to determine what you need. There are slight variations between panels that could change the interlock needed.

Go to this site, find your panel and confirm with them: https://www.geninterlock.com/

You're looking for a label something like this:

Image
- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you... -
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45caldan
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Post by 45caldan »

What size is needed to run the fridge, a few lights and central AC?
1500 ft home.
thanks
zeebaron
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Post by zeebaron »

Since we're on the topic, Sam's Club has an 1800 watt Westinghouse inverter on deep discount for $299 right now. I ordered one at midnight when they went on sale, very high ratings and good video reviews:

https://www.samsclub.com/p/westinghouse ... roduct_1_5
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Tenzing_Norgay
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Post by Tenzing_Norgay »

45caldan wrote: Sat Aug 01, 2020 1:29 pm What size is needed to run the fridge, a few lights and central AC?
1500 ft home.
thanks
Central AC is going to be the issue. Fridge & lights draw relatively nothing. Check the plates on your A/C for specs (starting/running amps) and size your generator accordingly.
- I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you... -
zeebaron
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Post by zeebaron »

Tenzing_Norgay wrote: Sat Aug 01, 2020 1:58 pm
45caldan wrote: Sat Aug 01, 2020 1:29 pm What size is needed to run the fridge, a few lights and central AC?
1500 ft home.
thanks
Central AC is going to be the issue. Fridge & lights draw relatively nothing. Check the plates on your A/C for specs (starting/running amps) and size your generator accordingly.
Condenser units will typically require 4-5x inrush startup amps than running amps. This can be mitigated slightly with a hard start capacitor, higher end units will come with one from the factory. If yours doesn't have one, they do make aftermarket ones (http://www.five-two-one.com/compressor- ... works.html). They have several models for different tonnage sizes your compressor is rated at. Available on Amazon or eBay easily:

Code: Select all

https://www.amazon.com/CPS-5-2-1-CSRU1-Compressor-Saver/dp/B003FNMADE

https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Start-3-5-4-5-tons-Units/dp/B01M17Z66I

https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Saver-Start-Capacitor-Model/dp/B003FNJ37U
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Flame Red
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Post by Flame Red »

One other little known facts is that most generators produce square wave AC, not sine wave AC like the power company does.

While most appliances can handle that short term, sensitive items like desk top computers, and other electronics might act funny. That being said, I have not had any electronics burn out from being powered by a generator. Flat screens, microwave, refrigerators, AC seem to tolerate it.

I sized mine by gathering the list of must haves, and looking at the stickers/plates on their draw and adding it up. Then when I went shopping I stumbled on a commercial one on sale at Home Repo that was much more capacity than I needed, so it was a no brainer.

Don't be like me and buy a small one, and then realize you need to upgrade later. If I had natural gas I would have installed a whole house generator like a Generac but I don't have NG.

I recommend an electric start if you can, beats using the string and having a heart attack. Also, try to run it using Ethanol Free gas from WAWA, or your carb might get ruined if any stays in the bowl. Mine burns 5 gallons in 24 hours. You can run the Al Gore-ahole enthanol $hit but I save one can of the good ethanol free stuff to use at the end to clean that $hit out. Even with that, make sure you empty the carb bowl of any gas before returning it to storage.

Make sure you have spare components, like a carb, or rebuild kit, spare oil & filter and battery as they will fail when you need it the most. Test it in June so you know if it works in advance!

If you need gas cans, google Race Fluid Containers to avoid the crappy gas cans the Obomination forced down our throats.

You can construct a tent out of PVC and a tarp to cover it from rain once the main storm is over. There are great plans on the internet to make it out of PVC and it did not cost much and comes apart for easy storage.

Make sure you only run it outside, not in a garage or other enclosed permanent structure - it will kill you!

Try to make it hard for someone to pull up with a truck and drive off with it if you are like me in da' hood. The Hood Rats want to stay cool too!
Ah that's one thing about our Flame, doesn't play any favorites! Flame hates everybody!
zeebaron
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Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2018 1:42 pm

Post by zeebaron »

The normal alternator generators do typically put out really dirty waveforms if they're not loaded sufficiently enough. That's why it's important to size one for your exact needs. Inverter generators are much better at producing perfect sine waves, but they will still be a bit distorted at low loads.
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