Florida Shooters Network

Searched technical forum=didn't find forum for my question.To avoid nfa BS I was wondering if you had to both silver soder and pin the muzzle brake, or just one of these. I know I will need a 2" brake or flashhider to bring the oal to 16". I was wondering also if anyone has done this themselves and would appreciate input to recommended technique. Thanks.

high-temp (1100°) silver solder, blind pin with a spot of weld over it, or weld around the entire circumference are the approved techniques.

ipscscott wrote:high-temp (1100°) silver solder, blind pin with a spot of weld over it, or weld around the entire circumference are the approved techniques.

Thank you. To install the blind pin, do you have to have a specific brake/flashhider? I was plannig using a surefire muzzlebrake.

nope, but you gonna have to drill yer own hole for obvious reasons.

For an 1.5" difference a 16" barrel just seems so much easier to deal with than a short barrel.

LastRites wrote:For an 1.5" difference a 16" barrel just seems so much easier to deal with than a short barrel.

I figured that myself, but it didn't satisfy my complex to do the hard way . I have had a factory setup by bushmaster w/ 14.5", I liked how it handled and it was something different.

On another note for me its about the build, just something I like to do.

ipscscott wrote:high-temp (1100°) silver solder, blind pin with a spot of weld over it, or weld around the entire circumference are the approved techniques.

Of course if you're using an older barrel and FH, (I forget when the BAT boys changed their rulings, '07?) you could do it the old accepted way and use the pin method without a weld on top.

ETA: It would be "breaking" a current ATF reg to use the above pin method, even with an older barrel. But then again, how would anyone know when it was attached?

George pose's a good option if you can figure out a way to date a barrel.